Hello Everyone,
An individual that shares my interest in Neo Geo MVS to NGH conversion
projects contacted me a week or so ago with specific conversion details
for a Neo Geo title that is quite costly and hard to find as a home cartridge.
He goes by the name Takagisan.
Like me, he likes to share what he has learned and I am here to share
my project with you that is based on his findings and hard work.
This project involves converting a Neo Turf Masters MVS to NGH format.
The sacrifice cartridge used for this conversion is a Samurai Shodown
2. I was lucky enough to find one for under $20 with a label that had
a severe crease in it. Perfect fodder for such a project!
I was able to find a loose, original Big Tournament Golf (Neo Turf Masters)
MVS cartridge for a very fair price with one of those "ghetto"
non-original labels. Again, a perfect choice for this project. No complete
kit was harmed.
Details:
Remove the V, P, S, M, and C chips from the Sacrifice NGH boards.
Remove the V, P, S, M and C chips from the Neo Turf Masters MVS cartridge.
Place them in their corresponding locations on the sacrifice NGH boards.
Solder them up nice and clean, take your time. Congratulations, you're
almost done.
Note: A small speck of solder discharge from my desolder work caused
certain in-game overlay graphics to "sparkle" in a very irritating
way. It took me over an hour to find the little speck attached to one
of the pins on the M1 chip. Even though it did not seem to make contact
with the adjoining pin it certainly caused me to scratch my head a bit.
After removing the speck, the conversion performed perfectly.
The Insert and Label
I created a custom insert for Neo Turf Masters. I started with a humble
screen grab, added some details, used a scan from the original MVS artwork
that I have (Yes, I have a complete Neo Turf Masters Kit) I was able to
piece something together. I used Photoshop and XARA X to manipulate the
images. XARA X has some nifty bitmap tracing options that I took advantage
of. For print, I work with 300 dpi. The captured art was 72 dpi
. . Blowing the stuff up was... ummm interesting. Here are the original
graphic snippets that I started with:
 
There is no need to make any jumper corrections to the PROGTOP2 board.
You will have several changes to make on the CHA256B though. Here are
the correct jumper settings and a custom insert and label that I
created for the project (Note: A more traditional insert and label created
by Takagisan's friend
Afugusan can be found at
the end of this article.
| CHA256B
| J |
Setting |
| 1 |
off |
| 2 |
on |
| 3 |
on |
| 4 |
off |
| 5 |
off |
| 6 |
off |
| 7 |
off |
| 8 |
off |
| 9 |
on |
| 10 |
on |
| 11 |
on |
| 12 |
off |
| 13 |
off |
| 14 |
off |
| 15 |
off |
| 16 |
off |
| 17 |
off |
| 18 |
off |
| 19* |
on |
| 20 |
on |
* If you have trouble with some of the graphics looking kind of messed up or "sparkling" try setting J19 to "off". |
|
-- Tiptonium Out...
|
